Swaziland
24 days,
August 09
INTRO SWAZILAND
Kind of travel:
me and my girlfriend Elisa in an independent travel
When:
08th Aug- 02nd Sept09
Do
I need a visa?: as EU citizien you don't, it's
just a stamp on the passport for free
How
I moved: the country is so small than buses and minibuses
can easily cover it all
Freezing
or baking?: at this latitudine in August it's
winter so temperatures can be relatively low (10-18 C) and a
light jacket should be in your backpack, but it'll still be
pleasant
Where
I slept: in Mazini we stayed in a basic hotel at the
bus station (21€ x a double), while in Mbabane the dusk
came before we found a cheap accommodation , so we ended up
in a deluxe B&B negotiating 35€ x a double (initial
price 54€)
What
I liked: the Umhlanga festival, to find something
clean after malawi and mozambico, the biking trip in Mlilwane
wildlife sanctuary
What I disliked:
Mbabane is meaningless
How much
daily: swaziland is more expensive than Mozambico and
a budget being a couple for transp+ accomm+ food will be around
30€ each
Dangers/
hassles: walking in the
evening in Manzini or Mababne you won't feel at ease
THE TRAVEL
IN SWAZILAND
[Traveling in Mozambique]
We easily entered Swaziland in Namaacha, without needing any
visa or paying any fee. Right at the border we jumped on a bus
to the second largest town of the country, Manzini. We immediately
felt the difference compared to Mozambique: the bus wasn't overcrowded
like hell, and it left even before having all the seats full,
so there was a bus schedule: spooky!!!
Through a hilly and pleasant landscape, we pulled into Manzini
with the dusk already descended. Astonished of being in such
a modern town, with its huge malls, we felt more in United Stated
that in Africa. Maybe unconsciously missing Mozambique we found
a room at the Mozambique hotel for 20€, having dinner in
one of the several fast-food's with fried chicken.
The next day in 1h by minibus we reached the King Sobhuza Memorial
and the National Museum plenty of details of the royal family
history: don't worry it's a quick visit since there's not that
much to say though. In the area there was a lot of crowd and
huge circus-like tents were mounted where many Swazi girls were
temporary staying getting ready for the Umhlanga festival, scheduled
in 2 days time.
It's a traditional dance that draws the Nation together and
reminds the people of their relationship with the King. In practice
60.000 Swazi virgins gathered in a kind of arena nearby the
royal palace, dance for the king, who at the end picks his new
wife to be added on top of the 13 ones he already has.
We missed the festival but the preparation was a show itself
anyway.
In the afternoon we headed to the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary,
initially on foot then, overwhelmed by the laziness of walking
6km, we hitch-hiked.
There we rented to bicycles and by ourown we had a two wheels
safari through the zebras, crocks, impalas… an interesting
experience and a very different way to enjoy the African wildlife.
The day was getting over so we headed to the capital Mbabane
looking for a hotel. Unfortunately we were caught by the dusk
before finding it, hence we had no choice than going in an expensive
(35€ for a double) but immaculate B&B, plunged in the
green Swazi hills.
To leave the Swaziland we went to Piggy Peaks (2h by minibus),
passing through the scenic mountainy area of the country: here
we stayed few hours enjoying the Sunday morning slow peace of
the town, characterized by the louder church speeches of the
messes.
From Piggy Peak it's 1h by minibus up to the line of the South
African border: here you'll realise how just a line on a map
it's enough to separate two completely different worlds.
Alby
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