Poland-Czech 98
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ABOUT THIS TRAVEL

August 98,    30 days

For more about Poland (Wroclaw, Mazuria, Zakopane, Swinuiscze) visit also my Poland 04-05


INTRO ABOUT POLAND

Kind of travel: A wholly independent travel

When: 1998 August

How I moved: always by train

Where I slept: in cheap hostel/hotels, in Warszaw even in a hostel in a ferry

Baking or freezing?: perfect temperature to spend the summer!

Dangers: there are no dangers here!

What I liked: an "easy to travel in" vast country, with so different areas (the lakes in the north east, the baltic coast, the mountains in the south) and with a lot of  nice highlights

What I disliked: I expected more from Warszaw


THE ITINERARY

"So far I have travelled just only through the western Europe; but what there's eastward?". So I decided to buy an inter rail ticket and leaving from Milan headed north-east. An inter rail ticket is a special ticket that lets you travel throughout Europe by train for one month without any limit on the number of the travels; for sure it's the best way to do a real (and cheap) travel in the old continent.
Frankly I had no idea about how far I could have got in one month, but I was very attracted by the small unknown countries called the Baltic Republics, and I would have done everything to get there.

[In Hungary]

From Slovakia I entered Poland stopping in the cute town of Krakow. This nice small town made me begin feeling the different and interesting atmosphere of the East, less intense in Budapest.
The quietness of the people playing violins, violas and flutes in the streets are my best Krakowian memory, along with the visit in the salt caves. It was freezing but worthwhile going down through the tunnels and suddenly coming out in huge halls dug in depth to get the salt. The last day in Krakow I got impressed by the sad but proper visit to Oswiecim (Auschwitz), a town two hours far from Krakow whose fame doesn't need explanation.
A bunch of hours by train there's Warsaw that with its soviet modern mixed style didn't charm me that much, but it was funny sleeping on a floating hostel, I mean a quite rusty boat moored on the Vistula bank. Anyway it was cheap and not too swinging.
The real part of the travel came when I reached the Lithuanian border in Suwalky, eight hours from the polish capital: the desert train slowed down till at walking pace when passed through a barbed wired gate opened by some armed soldiers.

[In the Baltic Repubblic]

From Klaipeda in Lithuania I counted to reach Gdansk by boat, but with big upset (I had been cursing for two days) I found out that there was no boat connection with Poland.
It took two days by train to reach Gdansk passing by Warsaw, but there was no other alternative unless I passed through the Kalinigrad region.
After one of the tirest train travel of all my life being crowded for 6 hours among drunk smelling polish guys I finally got to the picturesque Gdansk. I remember with pleasure this town with his typical colourful spire roofs, where I spent a bunch of nice days including a boat trip to the harbour, in particular till the point from where the first bullet of the Second World War was shot, where a huge sign stating "Never more" was placed.
Even more nicer was the day trip to sand dunes on the Baltic cost near Leba; I recommend you, unless you have visited Klaipeda in Lithuania that is similar but its dunes are definitely bigger. Leba is a very well known place among the Polish and you'll see a lot of families spending the week end there, in fact its dunes are inside a National park where there are several trails and a lake.
From Gdansk I travelled to Prague, our last leg where I spent some days. With the real east still in my eyes frankly I didn't get so impressed by the Czech capital, whose beauty is unquestioned, but I missed the humble quiet eastern atmosphere that I felt and charmed me in the Baltic republics; somehow it helped me to get aware I was coming back home.

Alby   

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