Rwanda travel info

Uganda- Rwanda: 18 days,  june- july  2005

• INTRO ABOUT RWANDA

• IMPRESSIONS OF RWANDA

• THE TRAVEL IN RWANDA

• PHOTOS OF RWANDA

• FUNNY STORIES

• TIPS

• PRINTABLE FORMAT

RWANDA INTRO

Kind of travel:
alone in a wholly independent travel

When:
24th june- 12th july 2005

How I moved:
autobus, minibus (matatu), moped (boda- boda) and hitch hiking

Where I slept:
cheap guesthouse and dormitory

What I liked:
the peacefullness of the country despite its past, the fresh weather, the absolute lack of cars on the roads and travelling around on the mopeds (boda- boda).

IMPRESSIONS ABOUT RWANDA

To most of the people Rwanda sounds just as a dangerous place but a lot changed since the '94, when the genocide happened. In fact now it's a safe country where to be backpacked and meanwhile still a kind of virgin area for a traveller; if you want to do an "off-of-the-beaten-track" travel, Rwanda is your destination! Of course this has pro and cons: people are friendly, I didn't meet any dodges and overcharging was not common. However you are a mzungu (white) and this is how you will be often addressed. Personally I was quite bothered for this, and it was one of the main reasons why I felt more at ease in Uganda where I didn't feel an alien every minute I was among the people. I found a strange attitude of the locals towards me in Rwanda. A sort of respect (they wanted me to sit on the bus or everybody will greet you on the streets) mixed to a strong curiosity of interacting and observing me to such extent that often seemed like there were teasing me. For instance people commenting about me on the bus and laughing at me everything I did calling me loudly mzungu. I'm sure everybody wanted to be friendly, but after ten days I was a little tired of all this explicit attention.
One thing that won't help your travel is the irregular presence of electricity and fresh water, even in the main towns, but being a little bit organised it hasn't been a great deal.
On the other hand one of the best surprises for me has been the sunny and fresh weather: forget sweating and baking, in fact most of the time I was wearing a light sweater.
Another nice characteristic has been the frequent means of transports and the complete lack of traffic: you travel around the country on the white matatus (minibus) horning and rocketing over the desert roads, even if without enjoying the way since you will be suffering being packed like hell. The uncomfortably travels definitely were my main concern.
From the budget point of view Rwanda is not south east Asia, hence travelling is not peanuts, especially for the park fees (50$), the gorilla tracking (375$) and the visa (60$). Consider at least 30$/day for a single traveller.
One thing you've really to keep in mind: you are in Africa, you need to have patience; things will work out, but they need their time, in particular dealing with the public means of transport.
Obviously there are some off-limit areas are like the Congolese and Burundian borders from which it's better to keep the distance and keep informed on the insta

THE TRAVEL IN RWANDA

[In Uganda]

...it took 9 hours (10$, breakdown included) from Kampala to Kigali passing by the border point in Gatuna; it has been an easy travel despite the long distance.
In Kigali I slept in the Muslim quarter (very typical) and the day after I arranged the Gorilla tracking. It was the 28^th June and there was almost no more availability, since the whole July was overbooked (I'm sure about it)!! Luckily there was a place for the day after, so I didn't hesitate to book it and jump over a matatu (minibus) to Ruhengeri. It cost a fortune: 375$!!!!!!! (tips for the gorrilas tracking) In 2 hours I reached this "big village" that is the base for the Gorilla tracking in Rwanda. Here I met some other mzungu (whites) with whom I arranged the jeep to reach the head quarters of the park, one hour away from the town (try to share the cost since the round trip is 50$). I saw the Amahoro B family: it took from 8.00 to 16.00 by jeep, walking in the park tracking the Gorillas, spending one hour with them and coming back.
The next day I headed to Gisenyi by matatu (minibus, 2h) where I spent one very relaxing day on the clean and desert sandy beach. Gisenyi is the last place you wouldn't think to find in a country like Rwanda.
The leg Gisenyi- Kibuye has been the toughest of the travel: it took 9h to do less than 100km on a supercrowded rusty bus (read the story!!). However it was worthwhile, since Kibuye turned out to be located in a very nice area of lake Kivu.
The next day I reached Butare by matatu, via Gitarama (7h). Butare is definitely the nicest town I visited in Rwanda: very fresh climate, very nice people and more lively then Kibuye and Gisenyi, but calmer then Kigali. Here I spent 3 days visiting also the shocking memorial of Murambi, where hundreds of dead bodies are kept in 24 former classrooms.
Then by bus, matatu, taxi and finally boda- boda (moped) in 9h I did from Butare to the wonderful lake Bunyonyi in Uganda.

[In Uganda]

Alby