I arrived by train in Ignalina, a bunch of hours from Vilnius. I still remember how funny was the travel in the slow wooden train with a lot of lithuanian old women carrying huge wooden baskets filled of blueberry just picked in the woods. Then hitch hiking (there's also a bus) I got in Palusce where I settled down in a room of a kind of nice cottage plunged in the wildlife. The park is very nice for trekking, but the best is to rent a kayak and hanging around the rivers, swamps and lakes sleeping in a tent. The images of the people in the tiny villages spread in the park are still stuck in my mind: old women washing the dishes in the river, polishing the doorway, pulling a trail filled of just picked vegetables.... and mainly almost no cars on the unpaved road; I hope time won't change it.