Vietnam
12 days ,
Dec'15- Jan'16
INTRO VIETNAM
Kind of travel:
Me and my wife Elisa with our 3 year old daughter INES in an
independent travel
When:
26th Dec'15- 8th Jan'16
Do I need a visa:
No, since till 30th June 2016 there's an agreement between Italy
and Vietnam about no visa requirement for Italian Citizens entry
Vietnam if staying less than 15days and reentering the country
not before 30 days.
How I moved:
Mainly by train (even spending overnight), but also with some
buses (a very cool VIP night bus) and by taxi inside the cities.
Speedboat has been a convenient way to reach Cat Ba and Vung
Tau
Freezing or baking:
In the north cold (max 12-13C) and wet (always!), in the center
(Danang/Hoi An/Hue) ranging max 16-19C but still wet. The good
weather I found only in the south where it was above 30C!
Where I slept:
Usually in Medium range Hotel (20€ room per medium/
high range) that I found clean and more than acceptable. Once
I slept in a super resort in Cat Ba (paying 80€), but it
was not worth given the weather. I particularly enjoyed sleeping
on the train in the 4 bed berth (50€ per person)
What I liked:
The best memory of the travel has been Hoi An by night with
the lanterns and floating candles. The we enjoyed travelling
on the comfortable Vietnamese trains also get acquainted with
Vietnamese thanks to our daughter. If passing by Hanoi you shouldn't
miss the water puppet show and the last but not the least I
liked Vietnam is cheap!!
What I disliked:
I hated the cold (max temp 12-13C) and rainy weather of the
North. The full booked trains in the high season that didn't
let us to find places available from Danang to Ho Chi Min.
How much daily:
All included (without flights) the budget turned out 45€/day
pp: 20€ per room for accommodation; 15€ pp for food;
if you use taxi for long distance it can be a part of your budget
(15€ for 30min ride)
Tips:
weather in the north/center in december is rainy and cold!
You might think to skip Halong Bay in December.Bring cash, since
all ATMs I tried did not work with foreigner credit cards! Check
carefully Vietnamese
Railway website for the train schedules
About backpacking with a 3yo toddler:
At the end it turned out easier than expected in particular
with the food (rise helped a lot), with the people (having a
baby opens many doors) and with the health (not a single issue).
The difficulties were to share the same bed on the train and
travelling in the late evening.
Alby
|
TRAVEL IN VIETNAM
Day |
|
Transport |
Night |
Price |
Duration |
1 |
Milan-Hanoi
|
Flight
|
|
850€/pp
|
30h
|
1,2,3 night
|
Hanoi
|
|
Serenity Villa
hotel
|
35€/ night
|
|
2,3
|
Hanoi
|
taxi,
on foot
|
|
|
|
4
|
Hanoi to Cat
Ba
|
Bus to Haiphong
Boat to Cat Ba island
Bus to Cat Ba town
|
|
13€ pp
|
6h
|
4,5 night
|
Cat Ba night
|
|
Cat Ba Sunrise
resort
|
80€ per
room
|
|
5
|
Cat
Ba
|
Taxi
per tour
Boat per monkey island
|
|
50€
per full day tour
|
|
5 night
|
Cat Ba night
|
|
Cat Ba Sunrise
resort
|
80€ per
room
|
|
6
|
Cat
Ba to Hanoi to Hue
|
speed
boat to Haiphong
train to Hanoi
|
|
|
|
6
night
|
train
night
|
|
Train
|
45€
pp (soft bed)
|
|
7
|
Hue
|
taxi,
on foot
|
|
|
|
7
night
|
Hue
|
|
Serene
shining hotel
|
18€
per room
|
|
8
|
Hue
to Danang
|
train
|
|
|
4h |
8
|
Danang
to Hoi An and back
|
bus
|
|
|
|
8
|
Hoi
An
|
on
foot
|
|
|
|
8
night
|
Danang
|
|
Stargazer
Hotel
|
17€/night
|
|
9 |
Danang
to Ho Chi Min
|
flight
|
|
80€/pp
|
1h |
9 |
Ho
Chi Min to Long Hai
|
boat
+ taxi
|
|
5€/pp
+ 10€
|
1h+30min |
10
night
|
Long
Hai
|
|
Thuy
Lan Guesthouse
|
30€
|
|
10 |
Long
Hai to Ho Chi Min to Can Tho
|
taxi
+boat +bus |
|
10€+4€/pp+
5€/pp
|
30min+
1h+ 4h |
11
night
|
Can
Tho
|
|
Hotel
Kim Tho
|
40€
|
|
11
|
Can
Tho (floating Market)
|
taxi
+ private boat
|
|
20€
for all
|
20min
+ 2h |
12
|
Can
Tho to My Tho
|
minibus
|
|
|
3h |
12
night
|
My
Tho
|
private
boat
|
|
15€
per all
|
3h |
12
|
My
Tho to Ho Chi Min
|
minibus
|
|
|
2.5h |
12-13
|
Ho
Chi Min to Milan
|
flight
|
|
|
30h |
Our entry point in the country Hanoi turned out
definitely worth to spend a day or two, since very representative
of Vietnam, unlike his southern counterpart Saigon that I found
unremarkable despite more lively for instance for an expat.
During the full 2 days we were in the capital we hung around
visiting the Sword lake with its characteristic pagoda settled
on an island, the old quarter devoted to commerce and the Ho
Chi Min Mausoleum (where the body of 'Uncle Ho' lies). Unfortunately
the latter is open only in the morning till 10.45am so we missed.
Next to it there's the museum, but without a guide (as we did)
isn't that interesting (guides are available only in the morning).
Something you shouldn't miss is the water puppet theatre: a
Vietnamese traditional puppet performance played on a pool;
it takes 1h and it's played several times per day each day.
Definitely less funny it has been the weather: it was cold (max
temp 13-14 C) and rainy. We have been unlucky since the temperatures
were well below the average of the period (max temp 17-18C).
Needless to say we found the some annoying weather in Halong
bay and in particular in Cat Ba island where we stayed for 3
nights.
As annoying as the weather it has been the bus trip to reach
the island, so avoid it! (read
the tips for details). When we reached Cat Ba we were a
kind of disappointed by his desolation (yes, for sure the weather
didn't help at all); however it turned far better when the following
day, we took a tour visiting in the morning by taxi (3h 30usd)
the Hospital caves, where a Vietcong hospital was settled and
the cannon fort from which you have an outstanding view. In
the afternoon we took another tour by boat (3h, 10USD) to the
Monkey island: a white beach where monkeys jump around. Not
so impressive unless you are a monkey lover, and the sea apart
of being cold was quite dirty. All in all I wouldn't really
recommend Cat Ba island in December unless the temperature warmer
enough to let you have a swim. I found also difficulty to enjoy
the peculiar view of Hanoi Bay (the sharp rocks emerging from
the water), unless you don't have a plane.
The way back was more comfortable thanks to the speed boat and
the train: besides it allowed us to enjoy the nice town of Haiphong
in a 4 hours stopover between the boat and the train
The same day in the evening we took the night train from Hanoi
to Hue, sleeping in a 4 bed compartment (soft bed that is the
upper version of the 2nd class). It turned a pleasant travel
given the train was clean and punctual, despite chilly due to
the A/C.
Hue is the old imperial capital; the town itself is unremarkable
but the visit to the Imperial city makes it a key highlight
of Vietnam. Again weather was sucking being cold and rainy,
so after a couple of hours we were wet and tired. In particular
it might help to have a guide instead of randomly poking around
as we did.
From Hue the city of Danang is a 4h train trip , and here we
settled down to see in day trip (1h by bus) the most visited
highlight of Vietnam: the old trader town of Hoi An. Unfortunately
again the weather was awful and I cannot hide at the begging
we were a little disappointed both by the weather and by the
crowd of tourists. However our impression switched completely
when the dusk fell on the town and the whole streets got lit
by the colorful lanterns and the channel by many floating candles.
Such images are still the best memories of the whole travel.
Another place that deserves a look is the town of Danang, largest
town of central Vietnam, built along the Song Ha river. Apart
of being a lively place with a wide entertainment park, it's
characterized by its hi tech bridges. In particular the Dragon
Bridge (really a dragon like bridge) that is particular impressive
in the evening during the light show with the dragon head spitting
smoke.
After Danang we got the big disappointment of the travel: we
didn't find place in any of the trains from Danang- Saigon and
we had to fly. It's not that we missed any experience we hadn't
already done with the Hanoi-hue night train but I particularly
envisioned the idea of running the whole way north to south.
Remember to book at least 5 days in advance if travelling by
train in Christmas season!
At least it took just 1h to reach Saigon from where we immediately
headed to the beach of Long Hai. This implied taking a 1h speedboat
to Vung Tau and 30min by taxi. Long Hai is the right place to
go if you want to enjoy a Vietnamese sea location not spoiled
by the international turism. During the week day the beach will
be all for yourself (I don't know think it might be the same
in the week-ends) and in his eastern part is clean enough to
bath. There are several cheap but comfortable hotels with outdoor
restaurants. Theoretically you can reach the popular beach of
Mui Ne by taxi, but it's more than 100km far away.
The following day changing several means of transport (taxi,
speedboat, taxi, and bus) we reached Can Tho, a large city perched
in the hearth of the Mekong Delta region. With an early wake
up, at 7.00am we left to visit the nearby (6km from the town)
floating market of Cai Rang, claimed to be the largest of Vietnam.
The whole trip took 3hours (around 20€) and it's an interesting
experience but I was expecting 'more action'. We were said then,
that the real market takes place during the night and in the
morning there are just the 'leftovers'; up to you to go there
at 3.00am to discover the truth.
Nevertheless Can Tho is a nice place to wander along the river
poking around the temples . By the way have a look to the Therevada
Buddist temple; if you are not coming from Cambodia it will
be a unique opportunity to see Buddhist orange dressed monks
unlike in all the other Buddhist temples in the rest of Vietnam
(that in fact are Mahayana).
Although relatively near, pulling in My Tho took 3 hours by
a never-ending travel by minibus. My Tho is the destination
of ALL the day tours from Saigon that visit the Mekong Delta.
I warmly recommend you to be there before 10am (so to stay overnight
there) if you don't want to feel in a conveyor belt of tourists.
You'll be taken to two islands set in the middle of the Mekong
branch in front of the town. The first is where the temple of
the monks that lived for years fed by coconuts lived and the
second is where the coconut candies are made. You won't miss
any of the typical stuffs characteristic of the superturistic
places all over the world as: traditional music session, the
photo with a piton, tasting the typical product (tea, honey,
milk) with the possibility to buy them, a 100m trip in a canoe
.
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